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Current IssueEditorial BoardOnline First ArticlesArchive

volume 33 issue 1 (march 2012) : 37 - 45

ROLE OF QUALITY ATTRIBUTES OF INDIAN WOOL IN PERFORMANCE OF WOOLEN PRODUCT: PRESENT STATUS AND FUTURE PERSPECTIVES -A REVIEW

L
L.Ammayappan*
L
L.K. Nayak
D
D.P. Ray
G
G. Basu
1National Institute of Research on Jute and Allied Fibre Technology, 12 Regent Park, Kolkata-700 040, India

  • Submitted|

  • First Online |

  • doi

Cite article:- L.Ammayappan*, Nayak L.K., Ray D.P., Basu G. (2025). ROLE OF QUALITY ATTRIBUTES OF INDIAN WOOL IN PERFORMANCE OF WOOLEN PRODUCT: PRESENT STATUS AND FUTURE PERSPECTIVES -A REVIEW. Agricultural Reviews. 33(1): 37 - 45. doi: .

ABSTRACT

Wool, a natural animal fibre obtained from fleece of small ruminants mainly from sheep and is used for development of various textile products ranges from suiting fabric to carpet due it its distinct properties like resiliency, flame-resistance, warmth, and good reactivity towards dyes. The quality attributes such as physio-chemical, mechanical and morphological properties of wool fibre play a major role in deciding its end use and value addition. Generally, fine wool is used for making suiting fabric with shrink resistant finish; Indian wool can be utilized for carpets and blankets. However, there is a wide scope for product diversification from Indian wool through genetic and technological intervention for improving their aesthetic as well as performance properties. This paper reviews the role of important quality attributes of Indian wool for the product development and value addition.

REFERENCES

  1. Acharya R.M., (1982).Sheep and Goat Breeds of India, FAO Publications, Rome, Italy.
  2. Alexander P. and Hudson R.R., (1954).Wool: Its Chemistry and Physics, Reinhold Publication Company, New York, USA.
  3. Ammayappan, L. (2009). Quality improvement of woolen products through chemical finishing techniques, Wool Technology, (Karim, S.A., Shakyawar, D.B. and Anil Joshi), Agrotech Publishing Academy, Udaipur, India. pp.349-363
  4. Ammayappan, L., (2008). Study on improvement in aesthetic properties of woolen products by different chemical finishes. Ph.D., Thesis, Anna University, Chennai.
  5. Ammayappan, L., and Gupta, N.P., (2011). A study on the effect of enzymatic pretreatment on physio-chemical and mechanical properties of woolen yarn, Manmade Text India, 54(7):244-248
  6. Ammayappan, L., and Moses, J.J. (2006), Study of the characteristics of angora rabbit hair in comparison with medium and fine wool fibers. National J Tech, 2(4):50-62
  7. Ammayappan, L., and Moses, J.J. (2007), Functional finishes for woolen textiles, Indian Text J, 118(1):25-32
  8. Ammayappan, L., and Moses, J.J. (2009). Study of antimicrobial activity of aloevera, chitosan, and curcumin on cotton, wool and rabbit hair, Fibers Polym, 10(2):161-166.
  9. Ammayappan, L., and Moses, J.J., (2010a). Study on physical and handle properties of wool/cotton union fabric treated with enzymes and different pre-polymer finishing chemicals, Current Chem Res, 1(1): 19-25.
  10. Ammayappan, L., and Moses, J.J., (2010b). Study on improvement in handle properties of wool/cotton union fabric by enzyme treatment and subsequent polysiloxane-based combination finishing, Asian J Tex, 1(1):1-13.
  11. Ammayappan, L., Moses, J.J. and Shunmugam, V., (2006).An overview on production of nonwoven fabric from woolen materials, Inst f Eng (India) -Text Eng, 87(2):9-14
  12. Ammayappan, L., Moses, J.J., Asok Senthil, K., and Jimmy K. C. Lam, (2011c). Effect of Alkaline and Neutral Protease Enzyme Pretreatment Followed by Finishing Treatments on Performance Properties of Wool/Cotton Union Fabric: A Comparative Study, J Natural Fibers, 8(4):272–288
  13. Ammayappan, L., Moses, J.J., Asok Senthil, K., Raja, A. S. M., and Jimmy K. C. Lam, (2011b). Performance properties of multi-functional finishes on the enzyme-pretreated wool/cotton blend fabrics, Text Color Finish, 23 (1): 1-9
  14. Ammayappan, L., Nayak, L.K., Ray, D.P., and Basu, B., (2012). Plasma treatment on textiles, Asian Dyer, 8(6):34,37-40
  15. Ammayappan, L., Shakyawar, D.B., Krofa, D., Pareek,P.K., and Basu,G. (2011a). Value addition of Pashmina products: Present status and future perspectives–a review, Agri Review, 32 (2): 91-101
  16. Anonymous, (1980a).Final report of the PL 480 project: Evaluation of the characteristics processing performance and end use suitability of various Indian wools, Wool Research Association, Mumbai.
  17. Anonymous, (1980b).Canary colouration of Indian wool: (1974)-1979 Final report, Wool Research Association, Mumbai.
  18. Anonymous, (2007).Chapter VIII: The wool and woolen textiles industry, Annual report (2006)-(2007), Ministry of Textiles, New Delhi):93-101.
  19. Anonymous, (2012). Website http://faostat.fao.org/site/569/DesktopDefault.aspx?PageID=569#ancor browsed on January 2012.
  20. Anonymous, (2011).Chapter IV: Textile exports. Annual Report (2009)-2010, Ministry of Textiles, New Delhi, pp.109-116.
  21. Arora R.K., Patni P.C., Gupta N.P. and Pokharna A.K., (1978b).Physical and mechanical characteristics of wools of some crossbred sheep, Indian J Text Res, 3(4):116-118.
  22. Arora.R.K, Chopra.S.K and Malhi R.S., (1978a). Mechanical processing of Indian wools, Indian Text J, 88(4): 138-140
  23. Bardhan, M.K., (2011). An overview of recent R&D initiatives by wool research association, Proceeding of National Seminar cum Workshop on Recent R&D initiatives and Developmental Schemes of wool and woolens, Wool Research Association, Mumbai, May 2011.
  24. Behera B.K. and Shakyawar D.B., (1998).Indian wool: Present status and future prospectus, Asian Text J, 7(1):38-43.
  25. Blakey P.R. Earlan C. and Jalihal M.R., (1967). Studies on Indian carpet wool (Indian) wool, Part-I: The physical and chemical properties, Text Res J, 37 (8):688-696.
  26. Chopra S.K., (1978). Elastic behaviour of Indian wools, Wool Woolen India, 15(1):25-28.
  27. Gupta N.P, Shakyawar.D.B and Sinha.R.D, (1998). Influence of fibre diameter and medullation on woolen spun yarns and their products, Indian J Fibre Text Res, 23(3):32-37.
  28. Gupta N.P., (1990).Some aspects of Indian wools and their grading, Indian Text J, 101:140-142.
  29. Gupta N.P., Arora R.K. and Verma G.K., (1981).As assessment of the characteristics of medullated and non-medullated wool fiber Indian J Fibre Text Res, 6(2):92-95.
  30. Gupta N.P., Patni P.C., Arora R.K. and Singh U.S., (1987b).Influence of medullated fibers on mechanical processing and product performance, Indian J Fibre Text Res, 12(1):46-52.
  31. Gupta N.P., Pokharna A.K., and Arora R.K., (1987a).Use of wool and other fibers, Indian Text J, 97(10):142-150.
  32. Kulkarni V.G and Moses J.J., (1997). Studies on Indian wool. Part-IV, Asian Text J, 6(1):78-84.
  33. Lewin M and Sello, (2000).Handbook of Fiber Science and Technology, Volume-II, Part-B. Dekker Series, New York.
  34. Lewin M., (2007).Handbook of Fibre Chemistry, 3rd edition, CRC Press, Baco Raton, USA,331-382.
  35. Lewis D.M., (1977).Wool Dyeing, Review Prog Color, 8:10-23.
  36. Mahal., (1972). Types and duration of fiber scales from the wool types of domestic sheep and bulk life, Indian Text J, 42(2):83-86.
  37. Morton, W.E., and Hearle, J.W.S., (2008). Physical Properties of Textile Fibres, 4th Edition, Woodhead Publishing Limited, England.
  38. Moses, J.J., and Ammayappan, L. (2008), Effect of silicone and urethane finishing treatment on performance properties of enzyme treated wool/cotton union fabric, J Text Asso, 69(2):68-74.
  39. Nandurkar U., (1978).Sulphur and cystine content of various Indian wools: Part-II. Wool & Woolens India, 15(1):41-44.
  40. Parthasarathy S., and Chopra S.K, (1995). Luster properties of wool – its importance and evaluation, Indian J Small Rum, 1(1): 44-46.
  41. Parthasarathy S., Swain N., Gopi Krishna G., Gour D and Surya A.K., (1996).Physical properties of Bharat Merino wool. Indian J Small Rum, 2(2):29-32.
  42. Parthasarathy.S, Chopra.S.K and Pokharna A.K., (1994). Luster in some imported wools, Indian Text J, 104 (12):66-69
  43. Parthasarathy.S, Chopra.S.K, Kushwaha B.P and Rawat P.S., (1995). Luster index for wool, Indian Text J, 105(12):28-30
  44. Patel B.K., (1978).Carbonisation process-Wool property relevance for trade and textiles. Wool Woolens India, 15(1):15-18.
  45. Patel B.K., Sinha R.D. and Ramamurthy T.N, (1974). Wool impurities-their nature, variation and removability, Wool Woolens India, 11(5):13-18.
  46. Patni P.C and Pokharna A.K., (1982). Effect of drafting on the characteristics of woolen yarn, Indian J Text Res.7 (2):61-62.
  47. Raja A.S.M., Ammayappan, L., Shakyawar D.B., Gupta N.P., (2011). Production and performance of angora rabbit hair- Bharat merino wool blended shawls, Indian J Small Rum, 17 (1), 79-82.
  48. Rama Rao D. and Chopra S.K., (1985).Measurement of medullation of single wool fiber. Indian J Fiber Text Res, 10(3):122-124.
  49. Rama Rao D. and Gupta V.B., (1991).Property structure correlation in wool fibers. Text Res J, 61(10):609-617.
  50. Rama Rao D. and Gupta V.B., (1992).Physical and morphological characteristics of wool fibers. Indian J Fiber Text Res, 17(1):1-8.
  51. Rama Rao D., (1985).Influence of moisture sorption on properties of Indian wools. Indian J Fiber Text Res, 10(2):80-83.
  52. Rama Rao D., (1990).Property-structure correlation in some wool fibers, Ph.D.,Thesis, IIT New Delhi, India.
  53. Shakyawar D.B., Raja A.S.M., Gupta N.P., and Ammayappan, L., (2011). Development of Magra wool - nylon blended hand knotted carpets, Indian J Small Rum, 17 (2): 207-209.
  54. Sharma P.P , (1973). Mechanical processing of Malpura wool: part I, Wool Woolen India, 10(4):13-17.
  55. Singh U.S., Patni P.C. and Swain N., (1983). Vegetable matter in wools and its removal, Indian J Fiber Text Res, 8(3):93-94.
  56. Singh V.K. and Metha S.C., (2002).A model for marketing and grading of raw wool, Indian Text J, 113:27-30.
  57. Sule A.D., (1966).Canary colouration of raw wool, Wool Woolen India, 3(2):24-29.
  58. Sule A.D., (2003a). Anatomy and fineness grade of Indian wools, Manmade Text India, 46(10): 402-408.
  59. Sule A.D., (2003b). Spinnability and SWOT analysis of Indian wools for pile carpets and other end uses, Manmade Text India, 46(11):25-30.
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    volume 33 issue 1 (march 2012) : 37 - 45

    ROLE OF QUALITY ATTRIBUTES OF INDIAN WOOL IN PERFORMANCE OF WOOLEN PRODUCT: PRESENT STATUS AND FUTURE PERSPECTIVES -A REVIEW

    L
    L.Ammayappan*
    L
    L.K. Nayak
    D
    D.P. Ray
    G
    G. Basu
    1National Institute of Research on Jute and Allied Fibre Technology, 12 Regent Park, Kolkata-700 040, India

    • Submitted|

    • First Online |

    • doi

    Cite article:- L.Ammayappan*, Nayak L.K., Ray D.P., Basu G. (2025). ROLE OF QUALITY ATTRIBUTES OF INDIAN WOOL IN PERFORMANCE OF WOOLEN PRODUCT: PRESENT STATUS AND FUTURE PERSPECTIVES -A REVIEW. Agricultural Reviews. 33(1): 37 - 45. doi: .

    ABSTRACT

    Wool, a natural animal fibre obtained from fleece of small ruminants mainly from sheep and is used for development of various textile products ranges from suiting fabric to carpet due it its distinct properties like resiliency, flame-resistance, warmth, and good reactivity towards dyes. The quality attributes such as physio-chemical, mechanical and morphological properties of wool fibre play a major role in deciding its end use and value addition. Generally, fine wool is used for making suiting fabric with shrink resistant finish; Indian wool can be utilized for carpets and blankets. However, there is a wide scope for product diversification from Indian wool through genetic and technological intervention for improving their aesthetic as well as performance properties. This paper reviews the role of important quality attributes of Indian wool for the product development and value addition.

    REFERENCES

    1. Acharya R.M., (1982).Sheep and Goat Breeds of India, FAO Publications, Rome, Italy.
    2. Alexander P. and Hudson R.R., (1954).Wool: Its Chemistry and Physics, Reinhold Publication Company, New York, USA.
    3. Ammayappan, L. (2009). Quality improvement of woolen products through chemical finishing techniques, Wool Technology, (Karim, S.A., Shakyawar, D.B. and Anil Joshi), Agrotech Publishing Academy, Udaipur, India. pp.349-363
    4. Ammayappan, L., (2008). Study on improvement in aesthetic properties of woolen products by different chemical finishes. Ph.D., Thesis, Anna University, Chennai.
    5. Ammayappan, L., and Gupta, N.P., (2011). A study on the effect of enzymatic pretreatment on physio-chemical and mechanical properties of woolen yarn, Manmade Text India, 54(7):244-248
    6. Ammayappan, L., and Moses, J.J. (2006), Study of the characteristics of angora rabbit hair in comparison with medium and fine wool fibers. National J Tech, 2(4):50-62
    7. Ammayappan, L., and Moses, J.J. (2007), Functional finishes for woolen textiles, Indian Text J, 118(1):25-32
    8. Ammayappan, L., and Moses, J.J. (2009). Study of antimicrobial activity of aloevera, chitosan, and curcumin on cotton, wool and rabbit hair, Fibers Polym, 10(2):161-166.
    9. Ammayappan, L., and Moses, J.J., (2010a). Study on physical and handle properties of wool/cotton union fabric treated with enzymes and different pre-polymer finishing chemicals, Current Chem Res, 1(1): 19-25.
    10. Ammayappan, L., and Moses, J.J., (2010b). Study on improvement in handle properties of wool/cotton union fabric by enzyme treatment and subsequent polysiloxane-based combination finishing, Asian J Tex, 1(1):1-13.
    11. Ammayappan, L., Moses, J.J. and Shunmugam, V., (2006).An overview on production of nonwoven fabric from woolen materials, Inst f Eng (India) -Text Eng, 87(2):9-14
    12. Ammayappan, L., Moses, J.J., Asok Senthil, K., and Jimmy K. C. Lam, (2011c). Effect of Alkaline and Neutral Protease Enzyme Pretreatment Followed by Finishing Treatments on Performance Properties of Wool/Cotton Union Fabric: A Comparative Study, J Natural Fibers, 8(4):272–288
    13. Ammayappan, L., Moses, J.J., Asok Senthil, K., Raja, A. S. M., and Jimmy K. C. Lam, (2011b). Performance properties of multi-functional finishes on the enzyme-pretreated wool/cotton blend fabrics, Text Color Finish, 23 (1): 1-9
    14. Ammayappan, L., Nayak, L.K., Ray, D.P., and Basu, B., (2012). Plasma treatment on textiles, Asian Dyer, 8(6):34,37-40
    15. Ammayappan, L., Shakyawar, D.B., Krofa, D., Pareek,P.K., and Basu,G. (2011a). Value addition of Pashmina products: Present status and future perspectives–a review, Agri Review, 32 (2): 91-101
    16. Anonymous, (1980a).Final report of the PL 480 project: Evaluation of the characteristics processing performance and end use suitability of various Indian wools, Wool Research Association, Mumbai.
    17. Anonymous, (1980b).Canary colouration of Indian wool: (1974)-1979 Final report, Wool Research Association, Mumbai.
    18. Anonymous, (2007).Chapter VIII: The wool and woolen textiles industry, Annual report (2006)-(2007), Ministry of Textiles, New Delhi):93-101.
    19. Anonymous, (2012). Website http://faostat.fao.org/site/569/DesktopDefault.aspx?PageID=569#ancor browsed on January 2012.
    20. Anonymous, (2011).Chapter IV: Textile exports. Annual Report (2009)-2010, Ministry of Textiles, New Delhi, pp.109-116.
    21. Arora R.K., Patni P.C., Gupta N.P. and Pokharna A.K., (1978b).Physical and mechanical characteristics of wools of some crossbred sheep, Indian J Text Res, 3(4):116-118.
    22. Arora.R.K, Chopra.S.K and Malhi R.S., (1978a). Mechanical processing of Indian wools, Indian Text J, 88(4): 138-140
    23. Bardhan, M.K., (2011). An overview of recent R&D initiatives by wool research association, Proceeding of National Seminar cum Workshop on Recent R&D initiatives and Developmental Schemes of wool and woolens, Wool Research Association, Mumbai, May 2011.
    24. Behera B.K. and Shakyawar D.B., (1998).Indian wool: Present status and future prospectus, Asian Text J, 7(1):38-43.
    25. Blakey P.R. Earlan C. and Jalihal M.R., (1967). Studies on Indian carpet wool (Indian) wool, Part-I: The physical and chemical properties, Text Res J, 37 (8):688-696.
    26. Chopra S.K., (1978). Elastic behaviour of Indian wools, Wool Woolen India, 15(1):25-28.
    27. Gupta N.P, Shakyawar.D.B and Sinha.R.D, (1998). Influence of fibre diameter and medullation on woolen spun yarns and their products, Indian J Fibre Text Res, 23(3):32-37.
    28. Gupta N.P., (1990).Some aspects of Indian wools and their grading, Indian Text J, 101:140-142.
    29. Gupta N.P., Arora R.K. and Verma G.K., (1981).As assessment of the characteristics of medullated and non-medullated wool fiber Indian J Fibre Text Res, 6(2):92-95.
    30. Gupta N.P., Patni P.C., Arora R.K. and Singh U.S., (1987b).Influence of medullated fibers on mechanical processing and product performance, Indian J Fibre Text Res, 12(1):46-52.
    31. Gupta N.P., Pokharna A.K., and Arora R.K., (1987a).Use of wool and other fibers, Indian Text J, 97(10):142-150.
    32. Kulkarni V.G and Moses J.J., (1997). Studies on Indian wool. Part-IV, Asian Text J, 6(1):78-84.
    33. Lewin M and Sello, (2000).Handbook of Fiber Science and Technology, Volume-II, Part-B. Dekker Series, New York.
    34. Lewin M., (2007).Handbook of Fibre Chemistry, 3rd edition, CRC Press, Baco Raton, USA,331-382.
    35. Lewis D.M., (1977).Wool Dyeing, Review Prog Color, 8:10-23.
    36. Mahal., (1972). Types and duration of fiber scales from the wool types of domestic sheep and bulk life, Indian Text J, 42(2):83-86.
    37. Morton, W.E., and Hearle, J.W.S., (2008). Physical Properties of Textile Fibres, 4th Edition, Woodhead Publishing Limited, England.
    38. Moses, J.J., and Ammayappan, L. (2008), Effect of silicone and urethane finishing treatment on performance properties of enzyme treated wool/cotton union fabric, J Text Asso, 69(2):68-74.
    39. Nandurkar U., (1978).Sulphur and cystine content of various Indian wools: Part-II. Wool & Woolens India, 15(1):41-44.
    40. Parthasarathy S., and Chopra S.K, (1995). Luster properties of wool – its importance and evaluation, Indian J Small Rum, 1(1): 44-46.
    41. Parthasarathy S., Swain N., Gopi Krishna G., Gour D and Surya A.K., (1996).Physical properties of Bharat Merino wool. Indian J Small Rum, 2(2):29-32.
    42. Parthasarathy.S, Chopra.S.K and Pokharna A.K., (1994). Luster in some imported wools, Indian Text J, 104 (12):66-69
    43. Parthasarathy.S, Chopra.S.K, Kushwaha B.P and Rawat P.S., (1995). Luster index for wool, Indian Text J, 105(12):28-30
    44. Patel B.K., (1978).Carbonisation process-Wool property relevance for trade and textiles. Wool Woolens India, 15(1):15-18.
    45. Patel B.K., Sinha R.D. and Ramamurthy T.N, (1974). Wool impurities-their nature, variation and removability, Wool Woolens India, 11(5):13-18.
    46. Patni P.C and Pokharna A.K., (1982). Effect of drafting on the characteristics of woolen yarn, Indian J Text Res.7 (2):61-62.
    47. Raja A.S.M., Ammayappan, L., Shakyawar D.B., Gupta N.P., (2011). Production and performance of angora rabbit hair- Bharat merino wool blended shawls, Indian J Small Rum, 17 (1), 79-82.
    48. Rama Rao D. and Chopra S.K., (1985).Measurement of medullation of single wool fiber. Indian J Fiber Text Res, 10(3):122-124.
    49. Rama Rao D. and Gupta V.B., (1991).Property structure correlation in wool fibers. Text Res J, 61(10):609-617.
    50. Rama Rao D. and Gupta V.B., (1992).Physical and morphological characteristics of wool fibers. Indian J Fiber Text Res, 17(1):1-8.
    51. Rama Rao D., (1985).Influence of moisture sorption on properties of Indian wools. Indian J Fiber Text Res, 10(2):80-83.
    52. Rama Rao D., (1990).Property-structure correlation in some wool fibers, Ph.D.,Thesis, IIT New Delhi, India.
    53. Shakyawar D.B., Raja A.S.M., Gupta N.P., and Ammayappan, L., (2011). Development of Magra wool - nylon blended hand knotted carpets, Indian J Small Rum, 17 (2): 207-209.
    54. Sharma P.P , (1973). Mechanical processing of Malpura wool: part I, Wool Woolen India, 10(4):13-17.
    55. Singh U.S., Patni P.C. and Swain N., (1983). Vegetable matter in wools and its removal, Indian J Fiber Text Res, 8(3):93-94.
    56. Singh V.K. and Metha S.C., (2002).A model for marketing and grading of raw wool, Indian Text J, 113:27-30.
    57. Sule A.D., (1966).Canary colouration of raw wool, Wool Woolen India, 3(2):24-29.
    58. Sule A.D., (2003a). Anatomy and fineness grade of Indian wools, Manmade Text India, 46(10): 402-408.
    59. Sule A.D., (2003b). Spinnability and SWOT analysis of Indian wools for pile carpets and other end uses, Manmade Text India, 46(11):25-30.
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